Historical Origin and Symbolic Representation of Nantong Blue Calico: From the Perspective of Symbolic Interactionism

Baowei Wei; Kittisan Sriruksa; Arunee Sriruksa

doi:10.14456/tiat.2026.4

Authors

Baowei Wei Faculty of Fine and Applied Arts, Khon Kaen University, Thailand
Kittisan Sriruksa Faculty of Fine and Applied Arts, Khon Kaen University, Thailand
Arunee Sriruksa Faculty of Fine and Applied Arts, Khon Kaen University, Thailand

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.14456/tiat.2026.4

Keywords:

Nantong Blue Calico, Symbolic interactionism, Intangible cultural heritage, Symbolic representation, Indigo dyeing

Abstract

Nantong blue calico, recognized as a national-level intangible cultural heritage item in China, represents a traditional resist-dyeing craft deeply rooted in the agrarian culture of the lower Yangtze River region. However, existing studies primarily focus on pattern restoration and technical preservation, often overlooking its dynamic symbolic transformation. Drawing upon Symbolic Interactionism, this study investigates the historical origins and symbolic representations of Nantong blue calico, examining how meanings have been constructed, negotiated, and transformed through social interaction. This qualitative research was conducted in Nantong, Jiangsu Province, between 2023 and 2025. Data were collected through semi-structured in-depth interviews with intangible cultural heritage inheritors, artisans, museum staff, and consumers, and non-participant observation at the Nantong Blue Calico Museum and Zhengxing Dyeing Workshop. The findings show that the formation of Nantong blue calico resulted from the long-term integration of resist-dyeing techniques and adaptation to environmental and socio-economic conditions. Its symbolic meanings have evolved from natural-pragmatic symbols rooted in indigo and cotton production, to ethical and social identity symbols, national resistance symbols, collectivist symbols, and, in contemporary contexts, to eco-fashion and intangible cultural heritage–based cultural capital symbols. These transformations demonstrate how technological innovation, migration, policy change, market forces, and environmental conditions collectively shaped its evolving symbolic system. The study confirms the central proposition of Symbolic Interactionism that meaning arises from social processes. By conceptualizing Nantong blue calico as a living symbolic system rather than a static artifact, this research contributes to heritage studies and provides theoretical insights for understanding how traditional crafts sustain cultural relevance through continuous social interaction and symbolic reinterpretation.

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