Connecting Tai, Kam and Li Peoples Through Weaving Techniques
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Published:
Nov 28, 2018
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Abstract
Textiles produced by Tai-Kadai peoples are widely admired and much studied, but to date there has been no comparative survey of weaving techniques. Looms and techniques are transmitted between generations in a conservative manner, and have the potential to reveal deep connections between different groups. In this article I present a survey of loom and patterning techniques, using a mapping approach, combined with comparative analysis similar to that used by linguists. The results trace Tai migration routes, and parallel the findings of linguists in many respects, with some significant differences. They also highlight the important contribution made by Tai-Kadai weavers to the development of the complex patterning systems (drawloom systems) that eventually found their way to the silk weaving industry in Europe.
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Buckley, C. D. (2018). Connecting Tai, Kam and Li Peoples Through Weaving Techniques. The Journal of the Siam Society, 106, 73–108. Retrieved from https://so06.tci-thaijo.org/index.php/pub_jss/article/view/157693
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References
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Boudot, E. and Buckley, C. 2015. The Roots of Asian Weaving: Textiles and Looms from Southwest China in the He Haiyan Collection. Oxford: Oxbow Books.
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Li, D., Li, H., Ou, C., Lu, Y., Sun, Y., Yang, B., ... & Jin, L. 2008. Paternal genetic structure of Hainan aborigines isolated at the entrance to East Asia. PLoS One, 3(5), e2168.
Li, Q., Li, B., and Yang, X. M. 2011. Study on Figuring Technique on a Back-Strap Loom of Li Nationality. Advanced Materials Research, 328, 961-965. Trans Tech Publications.
Li, Q., Li, B., and Li, J. Q. 2013. A Further Study on Bamboo-Cage Loom in Guangxi Province of China. Advanced Materials Research, 627, 173-177. Trans Tech Publications.
Long Bo. 2012. 底花本织机及其经锦织造技术研究 Low huaben loom and warp-patterned brocade weaving technique research. Master’s thesis.
Long, B., Zhao, F., Wu, Z. Y., and Peng, J. 2011. Investigate on the technique and artistry of Dai brocade in Yunnan province. Silk, 12, 015.
Luo, W., Hartmann, J., Li, J., and Sysamouth, V. 2000. GIS mapping and analysis of Tai linguistic and settlement patterns in southern China. Geographic Information Sciences, 6(2), 129-136.
McClintock, D. 2013. Storing pattern above the warp line. Complex Weavers Journal, June 2013, 5-7.
McIntosh, L. S. 2009. Textiles of the Phu Thai of Laos. Doctoral dissertation, Simon Fraser University.
Terwiel, B. J. 1978. The origin of the T’ai peoples reconsidered. Oriens extremus, 25(2), 239-258.
Boudot, E. and Buckley, C. 2015. The Roots of Asian Weaving: Textiles and Looms from Southwest China in the He Haiyan Collection. Oxford: Oxbow Books.
Chamberlain, J. R. 1972. The origin of the Southwestern Tai. Bulletin des Amis du Laos, 7-8, 233-244.
Chamberlain, J. R. 1975. A new look at the history and classification of the Tai languages. In Studies in Tai linguistics in honor of William J. Gedney, ed. J. G. Harrisand J. R. Chamberlain, Bangkok : Central Institute of English Language, Office of State Universities, 49-66.
Chamberlain, J. R. 2016. Kra-Dai and the Proto-History of South China and Vietnam. Journal of the Siam Society, 104, 27-77.
Cheesman, P. 2004 Lao-Tai Textiles: The textiles of Xam Nuea and Muang Phuan. Chiang Mai: Studio Naenna.
Conway, S. 1992. Thai textiles. London: British Museum Press.
Conway, S. 2002. Silken Threads Lacquer Thrones: Lan Na Court Textiles. Bangkok: River Books.
Evans, G. 2016. The Tai original diaspora. Journal of the Siam Society 104, 1-26.
Gedney, W. J. l964. A Comparative Sketch of White, Black and Red Tai. Social Science Review (special number). Bangkok.
Gittinger, M. and Lefferts, H. L. 1992. Textiles and the Tai Experience in Southeast Asia. Washington, DC: The Textile Museum.
Guedes, J. D. A. 2011. Millets, rice, social complexity, and the spread of agriculture to the Chengdu Plain and Southwest China. Rice, 4(3-4), 104-113.
Holm, D. 2010. Linguistic diversity along the China-Vietnam border. Linguistics of the Tibeto-Burman Area 33(2) 1-62.
Howard, M. C. and Howard, K. B. 2002. Textiles of the Daic Peoples of Vietnam. Bangkok: White Lotus Press.
Ito, N. 2015. Why Do They Weave?: The Role of Marriage Rites in the Textile Production of Lao-Tai Women in Houa Phanh Province. The Journal of Lao Studies, Special Issue 2015, 64-81.
Li, F. K. 1977. A handbook of comparative Tai. Oceanic Linguistics Special Publications, (15), i-389.
Li, D., Li, H., Ou, C., Lu, Y., Sun, Y., Yang, B., ... & Jin, L. 2008. Paternal genetic structure of Hainan aborigines isolated at the entrance to East Asia. PLoS One, 3(5), e2168.
Li, Q., Li, B., and Yang, X. M. 2011. Study on Figuring Technique on a Back-Strap Loom of Li Nationality. Advanced Materials Research, 328, 961-965. Trans Tech Publications.
Li, Q., Li, B., and Li, J. Q. 2013. A Further Study on Bamboo-Cage Loom in Guangxi Province of China. Advanced Materials Research, 627, 173-177. Trans Tech Publications.
Long Bo. 2012. 底花本织机及其经锦织造技术研究 Low huaben loom and warp-patterned brocade weaving technique research. Master’s thesis.
Long, B., Zhao, F., Wu, Z. Y., and Peng, J. 2011. Investigate on the technique and artistry of Dai brocade in Yunnan province. Silk, 12, 015.
Luo, W., Hartmann, J., Li, J., and Sysamouth, V. 2000. GIS mapping and analysis of Tai linguistic and settlement patterns in southern China. Geographic Information Sciences, 6(2), 129-136.
McClintock, D. 2013. Storing pattern above the warp line. Complex Weavers Journal, June 2013, 5-7.
McIntosh, L. S. 2009. Textiles of the Phu Thai of Laos. Doctoral dissertation, Simon Fraser University.
Terwiel, B. J. 1978. The origin of the T’ai peoples reconsidered. Oriens extremus, 25(2), 239-258.